Rip current mempunyai energi yang kuat dan besar sehingga berpotensi bahaya yang nantinya juga mengakibatkan abrasi pantai. Di wilayah Perairan Selat Madura arus dominan yang timbul adalah arus sepanjang pantai (longshore current), yang nantinya akan dapat diketahui rip current nya, karena rip current terjadi akibat variasi sepanjang pantai dari tinggi gelombang pecah. Tujuan penelitian adalah untuk mengetahui karakteristik gelombang, pola arus, dan arus dominan di lokasi penelitian. Penelitian dilakukan pada bulan Nopember 2013. Rip current diketahui dari nilai arus sepanjang pantai dan hasil dari tinggi gelombang pecah. Hasil penelitian selama 2 tahun (2012-2013) tiap bulan menunjukkan tinggi gelombang tertinggi 1,17 m (bulan Januari) dan terendah 0,5 (bulan Mei), tinggi gelombang pecah tertinggi 1,14 m (bulan Januari) dan terendah 0,02 m (bulan Pebruari). Berdasar nilai d/L ≥ ½ maka klasifikasi gelombang menurut kedalan relatif termasuk gelombang laut dalam. Nilai Tinngi gelombang dan Tinggi gelombang pecah tersebut terjadi karena pengaruh angin barat, yang termasuk pada musim hujan di Indonesia. Hasil perhitungan menunjukkan bahwa dominasi arus di Perairan Selat Madura adalah arus sepanjang pantai dengan nilai sebesar 0,062224 m/s dan tinggi gelombang pecah sebesar 0,00571226 m. Diduga karena pengaruh morfologi, angin dan kedalaman yang terdapat pada pantai tersebut. Hasil perhitungan nilai tersebut diketahui bahwa rip current di Perairan Selat Madura terjadi pada kedalaman 2,4 dan 10 meter, hal ini merupakan hasil ploting sudut gelombang pecah kedalaman terhadap peta bathimetri. Kata Kunci : Karakteristik Gelombang, Arus Sepanjang Pantai, Rip Current


Deskripsi Lain

Rip currents are strong and have a great energy, so the potential dangers that will also lead to coastal erosion. In the Madura Strait region that arises is the dominant currents flow along the coast (longshore current), which will be known its rip currents, rip currents occur as a result of variations in height along the coast from breaking waves. The purpose of the study was to determine the characteristics of the wave, current patterns, and current dominant at the study site. The study was conducted in November 2013, is known from the value of the current Rip currents along the coast and the result of the breaking wave height. The results of the study for 2 years (2012-2013) of each month showed the highest wave height of 1.17 m (in January) and the lowest was 0.5 (in May), the highest breaking wave height of 1.14 m (in January) and the lowest 0, 02 m (in February). Based on the value of d / L ≥ ½ the wave classification according to the relative kedalan including deep sea waves. Value tinngi High waves and wave breaking occurs due to the influence of the west wind, which included the rainy season in Indonesia. The calculations show that the current dominance in the Madura Strait is a current along the coast with a value of 0.062224 m / s and a breaking wave height of 0.00571226 m. Allegedly due to the influence of morphology, wind and depth found on the beach. The results of the calculation of these values is known that the rip currents in the Madura Strait occurs at depths of 2.4 and 10 meters, it is the result of plotting against the corner of a breaking wave depth bathymetry map. Keywords: Wave Characteristics, Longshore Current, Rip Current